The story day by day part 2
The North

29-10

Johannesburg - Dullstroom

The transfer from Cape Town to Johannesburg by South African Airways went smooth and around noon we boarded our new rental car and hit the road. It took us most of the afternoon to get to Dullstroom. We decided to visit Dullstroom for the high altitude grassland birds, being my best chance to find Wattled Crane. Unfortunately I was told that Wattled Crane has not been seen for the last two years in the Dullstroom area…

We found a room hosted by the Dullstroom Information Centre (R 300). In the last hour of daylight I scanned the dambo opposite our room and found the charming Red-collared Widowbird breeding among the breeding colony of Cape Weavers. 

30-10

Dullstroom – Lydenburg – Mysty Mountain - Sabie - Graskop

Our main targets for the day were highland grassland associated birds and though the Dullstroom area [171] is not as good as the Wakkerstroom [152] region, it is appropriately situated on the way to Blyde Canyon and Kruger NP and due to the tight time schedule my only option. Birding started as soon as we left the R540 north of Dullstroom with several Long-tailed Widowbirds displaying over the grasslands. Grassveld Pipit, Pied Starling and Yellow Bishop were all common. Roadside birding took its toll when I lost my temper over the fact that a fast driving car chased away two francolins crossing the road, never to be seen again, most probably Grey-winged Francolin. From here on birding was slow over all.

According to the signs at the entrance of Verloren Vallei NR, entrance is allowed and even encouraged (as opposed to Cohen et al. stating that it can be visited by arrangement only). We drove the first part until the road seemed too tricky to navigate with a regular car and walked the rest to the end of the valley (4 km). Birds present were Cape Longclaw, Pied Kingfisher, Long-billed Pipit and Banded Martin plus a set of unidentified cisticolas (they can be headache instigating tricky).

The rocky outcrop at the entrance and the marsh held Buff-streaked Chat, Drakensberg Prinia, Wattled Plover but again no sign of Ground Woodpecker.

A bit further we faced another disappointment: the right (east) part of the grasslands were recently burnt as far as we could see and over nearly the whole stretch of road marked in Cohen et al as ‘pristine grassland’. Yet the only Sentinel Rock-Thrush of the trip was on this side of the road. Two Blue Cranes flew over but that was pretty much it until a single soaring crane attracted my attention. It was very far away but slowly came in our direction making itself known as Wattled Crane! Soon enough it was gone leaving us flabbergasted in the scorched landscape. Not the best sighting but anyway probably our most lucky moment of the trip. A bit later we were treated with another goody: Yellow-breasted Pipit.

In hindsight the Dullstroom area was a bit disappointing and I would advise everybody with the luxury of choice to choose the Wakkerstroom area over Dullstroom.

We drove to Lydenburg where we did some shopping. Underway from Lydenburg to Sabie we passed a good spot for Blue Swallow, named Misty Mountain Natural Heritage Site [176]. Entrance to this private land is easily obtained at the Misty Mountain Resort. At the resort we were told that the birds had not yet arrived in spite of the fact that they normally return somewhere in September/October, probably due to the very cold winter. From the resort it is a gentle walk with Red-backed Manakin and the eastern form of Cape White-eye and probably much more opportunities time permitting. The grassland area is actually quite small and soon we could only give in to the absence of the target birds. We hope they did arrive at all this year…

The drive from the Blue Swallow site via Sabie to Graskop must be one of the ugliest and depressing we ever conducted: complete mountainsides either monoculture pine forest or the same but burnt to the ground. Was this due to a disaster in the recent past or is this routine business in South African forestry? In Graskop we stayed in a very charming cottage of Log Cabin Village (R 380 per night).

31-10

Graskop – Blyde River Canyon – Abel Erasmus Pass - Graskop

Today was primarily meant to play tourist in Blyde River Canyon but this turned out to be also an excellent opportunity for a bird or two. Blyde River Canyon [176] is not covered in Cohen et al. but this does not do the area justice. All areas mentioned in the following text are signposted from the R532 out of Graskop.

We started the trip at the Pinnacle early morning still before the arrival of the first wave of tourists, with finally good enough views of Wing-snapping Cisticola. Levaillant’s Cisticola was also present here. God’s Window has a small patch of rainforest just above the vista point. Fortunately we were still ahead of the tourists and birds were all over the place. A good flock of Forest Canary welcomed us at the parking place. Two Barratt’s Warblers showed remarkably well along the trail. Other birds of note were Drakensberg Prinia, Bar-throated Apalis and Sombre Bulbul. Knysna Turaco was heard. The road from God’s Window north until it rejoins the R532 passes interesting grasslands with rocky koppies. Here we found Cape Rock-Thrush, Buff-streaked Chat (common!) and Secretarybird. A second visit the same evening yielded Rufous-chested Sparrowhawk.

The next tourist trap was Bourke’s Luck Potholes. By the time we arrived here the bulk of tourist had gained up on us. The potholes held a family of Mocking Cliff-Chat and the first African Pied Wagtails. While waiting for a drink in the car park I got lucky again with a Southern Bald Ibis flying by.

The Three Rondavels have great scenery and shouldn’t be missed. In the area between the car park and the view point we found two noisy Lazy Cisticolas and a Familiar Chat.

The whole excursion took us most of the morning, which is perfectly possible when starting early in the morning.

So we had the whole afternoon to drive to the Abel Erasmus Pass [177] to twitch the only known pair of Taita Falcon in South Africa. Upon arrival we were greeted by the local birder who can help finding the birds. Soon we knew exactly where the nest was and how the breeding pair generally act but it took over an hour before the male Taita Falcon arrived with food for the female. The next half an hour was a spectacle of flying, sitting and bullying White-necked Ravens. Other birds present: Cape Griffon, White-bellied Sunbird, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting and Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird (heard only).

1-11

Graskop – Mt Sheba – Pilgrims Rest – Kruger NP - Pretoriuskop

We left Graskop early to be in time at Mt Sheba NR [172] for a morning Afromontane forest birding. Just before the start of the forest we chased two Red-necked Spurfowl from the road. At the car park two Swee Waxbills were present. We reported at the resorts reception and walked the Marshall trail, a great hike with White-starred Robin as one of the most common species. At a certain point we had an excellent feeding flock including Olive Woodpecker (over five birds), Terrestrial Bulbul, Yellow-streaked Greenbul, Grey Cuckooshrike, Yellow-throated Woodland-Warbler, Cape Batis, Southern Double-collared Sunbird and last but not least a Bush Blackcap. Before leaving the site I had a quick look at the Lost City with two charming Klipspringers present but not many birds. Buff-streaked Chat was present at the cliffs and Wailing Cisticola and Eastern Long-billed Lark in the grasslands.

Pilgrims Rest is a nice spot for a coffee and a stroll in the old centre. Many trees were flowering and consequently many sunbirds were present, including Malachite, Greater Double-collared and Amethyst. I realized too late that this might actually have been the best opportunity to find Gurney’s Sugarbird. A bird that I eventually dipped.

The drive to the Nimbi gate of Kruger NP [191] was quick and easy and before we knew it we were in the world renowned wildlife park. We drove on to Pretoriuskop [194], our first camp, and set up the tent. In the camp birding was good with lots of new birds like Bateleur, White-browed Robin, Spectacled Weaver, Brown-headed Parrot, Grey Go-away-bird, Purple-crested Turaco and African Green-Pigeon. Fun to see a pair of Bennet’s Woodpecker getting excited about their reflection in a car’s mirror and windows.

In the afternoon we drove the Fayi loop (S8-S14). Most of the area was recently burnt but the regenerated grasses attracted many grazers. Impala, Waterbuck, Greater Kudu, Grey Duiker and Blue Wildebeast were all fairly common. The Warthogs were as nervous as always. Birds included Red-billed Oxpecker, Striped Kingfisher, Crested Barbet, Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill, Lesser Striped-Swallow and Natal Francolin. But the real treat was a White Rhinoceros at close quarters, the first of many highlights in Kruger NP.

2-11

Pretoriuskop – H2-2 – Afsaal – H3 – S114 – Skukuza

On our first full day in Kruger we decided to take the H2-2 east and the H3 north to Skukuza but we started with the small loop S10 near Pretorius [194]. Three Rhinos were again impressive but also showed that they are quite common nowadays. Again many new birds including Brubru, Arrow-marked Babbler, Yellow-throated Petronia and Southern Black Tit. Odd to see Little Banded Goshawk and Little Sparrowhawk in line. We found our first Giraffes close to Pretoriuskop.

The H2-2 (Voortrekker road) was over the whole stretch good for wildlife with a pride of Lions as a spectacular highlight. And more birds, including Bearded Woodpecker, Golden-breasted Bunting, Pygmy Kingfisher, Common Scimitar-bill, Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove and a personal favorite of mine, the Magpie Shrike.

We were more than ready to get out of the car at Afsaal, a crowded place but also loaded with birds. The resident African Scops-Owl was literally signposted. The picnic area also held three species of glossy starling (Greater Blue-eared, Cape and Burchell’s), Southern Red-billed Hornbill and Crested Francolin.

We left Afsaal and headed north by the H3. Both wildlife and birds were slower now, due to the time of day. A small watercourse along the road gave both Black Crake and Water Thickknee. Turning off the main road following the S113 and S23 to get to the S114 was a good idea. Along this road we found the first Tawny Eagles, Lilac-breasted Rolers and Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver. More raptors showed up: African Harrier-Hawk, Steppe Eagle, White-backed Vulture and a bit later a Brown Snake-Eagle. But the biggest surprise of this stretch were two Striped Cuckoos passing the road and allowing good views before disappearing in the scrubs. The last part of the trip yielded Swainson’s Spurfowl and Marabou both close to Skukuza camp [192].

We entered the biggest of the Kruger camps a bit after 2 pm and put up the tent close to the fence. Birdwise it was dead quiet. Only the Sabie river held some activity with a Wood Sandpiper, Striated Heron, African Hoopoe and Goliath Heron. More Marabou flew overhead. African Palm Swifts were in evidence. Just before dusk we got company of a confiding Spotted Hyena taking up residence at only 4 meters from our tent. We ended the rewarding day with a buffet in the restaurant.

3-11

Skukuza – H4-1 – S30 – Mlondozi dam – S122 – H10 – H1-3 - Satara

I started with an early morning walk at the campsite being much more alive than the previous afternoon. The area between the campsite and the train museum held White-browed Robin-Chat, Willow Warbler, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Collared Sunbird, Lesser Honeyguide, Black-collared Barbet, Lesser Masked Weaver and the very charming White-throated Robin-Chat.

We left Skukuza [192] heading east with Pied Cuckoo being quite common along the stretch of road following the river. The only Little Bee-eater and the only flock of White Helmetshrikes of the trip were also found here. A few stationary cars made us suspicious as to what they were looking at and great was our surprise when a Leopard crossed the road just before these cars! We managed to get another glimpse up close just before it disappeared never to be seen again. And that was our first and only encounter with a Leopard: two split glimpses. Later we learned that the Leopard was at a kill just beside the road and we were more or less too late at the spot for good views.

Birding was a bit slow along the S30 with Purple Roler and Croaking Cisticola new for the trip. Mlondozi dam [194] held a good amount of water and consequently there was a lot of activity in and around the lake. White-faced Whistling-Duck, Yellow-billed Stork and Great Egret were all additions to the list.

Along the S122 we had a great encounter with a couple of Giraffes, we enjoyed them (male and female) close to the car for over half an hour before we headed on. Also along this road were a Rhino and several Elephant bulls. Two Rufous-naped Larks and a Yellow-throated Longclaw were seen along this road too. We had a lunch at Tshokwane with an Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike in the scrubs at the dry river course.  A bit further on up the road the Mazithi water body held a wide variety of wildlife. Giraffe, Plains Zebra, Waterbuck and Hippo were joined by Yellow-billed Stork, Saddle-billed Stork and Hamerkop, the latter quite literally enjoying the presence of a Hippo by using it as a post. This was the only area where we saw good numbers of vultures. The variety was even better: White-backed being the most common with a few Cape and two majestic Lappet-faced. It was impressive to see a huge number of Zebras coming in from all over the place to get a drink. There must have been over 200 individuals in that specific area.

During the rest of the trip to Satara [195] we saw Black-crowned Tchagra, Southern Ground Hornbill, African Mourning Dove and a Wahlbergs Eagle. We arrived in Satara around 3 pm, just in time to photograph the resident birds of the campground coming in for crumps of ginger cookie. Just before dusk a big thunderstorm developed close by allowing great views of a skyline full of lightning. The storm arrived at the camp after dark and caused quite a bit of panic as several tents almost blew into the air, including ours. Obviously the night drive we subscribed for was canceled. And so we ended a second day with 4 out of the big five, this time the Lion being the dip.

4-11

Satara – S100 – S41 – S90 – S92 - Olifants

The first light of day was spent in the campground. Fortunately the storm passed by and the rain that fell during the night was promising. The campground held Dideric Cuckoo, Wattled Starling and more African Morning Doves, Crested Barbets and Natal Francolins.

The S100, famous for its wildlife sightings did not live up to its expectations. Impala and Wildebeast were the only beasts in evidence. All three francolins (Swainson’s, Crested and Natal) were common along this road. Two Red-backed Shrikes, a Burchell’s Coucal and a small flock of Jameson’s Firefinches were also seen. Gudzani pond held the only African Openbill of the trip and three African Jacanas.

Heading north along the S41 the area gets noticeable dryer. Here Sabota Larks started to appear. We also found two Lesser Grey Shrikes and more Red-backed Shrikes. Another Booted Eagles scanned the area. A bit later 2 Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Larks were seen. Always a treat were the 2 White-headed Vultures flying by, but what a drag to be forced to stay in the car and squeeze yourself into a position to get them in sight. Last but not least for this stretch of road were a male and later a female Red-crested Korhaan. The male not only allowed for some photographs but he seemed provoked by the sound of my camera, since it makes a comparable sound.

Olifants camp [198] is definitely the most scenic camp in Kruger NP with great views over the Olifants river from a comfortable lookout point. A Crowned Eagle shown to me by a local birder turned out to be a recently fledged juvenile African Fish-Eagle. A Hooded Vulture passed by. In the end of the day I got unsatisfying views of a White-headed Lapwing far below in the river bed.

After a small fight with the bureaucracy of the park officials we were able to go on a night drive at the cost of the postponed night drive of Satara. But this was quite a disappointment. There was only one guide and he was busy driving the truck much too fast through the pitch black night of Kruger. A few of the tourists got spotlights and the assignment to find wildlife. It was obvious that for most of the tourists this was the first experience with spotlighting and most of the time the light beams crisscrossed the surroundings like a Pink Floyd laser show. It must have been a great look from above! The drive resulted in no more than Springhares an Scrubhares until just about the last five minutes when a Lion and a Elephant crossed the road together.

5-11

Olifants – H8 – H1 – Mopani - H13 – Punda Maria – S59

We decided to depart as early as possible, not only for the long ride north but also to benefit the twilight for possible encounters with wildlife. This did not happen and the first mentionable wildlife were birds, notably several big flocks of White-fronted Bee-eater, two Saddle-billed Storks, twice a pair of African Hawk-Eagle and a Black-breasted Snake-Eagle.

A water point somewhere underway yielded not only a drinking African Hawk-Eagle but also a good number of Monotonous Larks, first puzzling me about their true identification, being quite small and cryptic. At Mooiplaas a flyby Grey-hooded Kingfisher was added to the list.

We made a quick stop for a coffee at Mopani Camp [198], overviewing a dam. Red-headed Weavers nested at the big baobab on the premises and the dam held Collared Pratincole and Grey-rumped Swallow. The Acacias near the lookouts held a beautiful male African Paradise-Flycatcher and Three-streaked Tchagra.

As told in Cohen et al 2006 mopane is not very bird rich so we were able to rush our way up to Punda Maria, occasionally stopping for the increasing numbers of Buffalo, a juvenile Martial Eagle, three Temminck’s Coursers and the only wild Ostriches in Kruger. In the last part of the H1 before the turn of to Punda Maria [196] we were lucky to find two Roan Antelope, probably the rarest antelope we saw. Along the H13 an Eastern Nicator was clear evidence that we arrived in the north.

The heat of the day (it was over 38 degrees C) made us reluctant to spend the night sleepless in an overheated tent. We longed for a good bed and an air co. But changing a booking is not easy in Kruger. The local employees seem not to be able to do this. We had to call our tour agent to make the arrangements. After a bit of hassling we found the manager willing to make the phone call and within 5 minutes it was arranged.

In the afternoon we drove the S59 (Mahony loop). The area is very scenic and completely different from the parts of Kruger we saw last days. Wildlife was active including small groups of nervous adolescent Buffalo. Birds of note along the loop: Eastern Bearded Robin, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Crowned Hornbill, Yellow-billed Oxpecker, Knob-billed Duck and a charming flock of 8 Crested Guineafowl. Highlight though was a 3 meter long Black Mamba lying on the track; as soon as we stopped the car the head of the snake shot up to almost a meter from the ground and in a flash it turned around and disappeared into the shoulder. Never seen a snake move this quick! Happy to be in a car in this situation. Later we found out that Black Mamba is the fastest snake in the world.

The night in a good bed in an air-conditioned room was a treat and definetely worth the hassle.

6-11

Punda Maria – S60 – H1-8 - Pafuri – S63 - Punda Maria

Again an early departure. The first part of the trip over the S60 was still dark. This resulted in a Freckled Nightjar sitting on the road and a cat of some kind. The rest of the drive to the river crossing at Pafuri [195] was not very interesting. At the bridge a White-headed lapwing and a Greenshank was present, a Trumpeter Hornbill flew by. The trail to the get-out point was good for Bearded Woodpecker, Golden-tailed Woodpecker, 2 Cinnamon-breasted Buntings and several Broad-billed Rollers. The get-out point held Tropical Boubou, Grey-headed Bush-Shrike, Marico Sunbird and a breeding pair of Black-throated Wattle-eyes. The S63 was not very birdy, but new for the trip were Pale Flycatcher, Meves’s Starling and many Red-billed Firefinches. The river lookout at the end of the S63 held another White-headed Lapwing.

Back in Punda Maria [196] our only Groundscraper Thrush of the trip was singing from a treetop. Much of the afternoon was spent in the hide at Punda Maria with more Broad-billed Rollers, both European and White-fronted Bee-eaters, Marabou, a Pygmy Kingfisher at the camp ground, House Martin and a puzzling flock of non-breeding plumage whydahs with some birds molting and one male allowing identification: Eastern Paradise-Whydah.

7-11

Punda Maria – S59 – Polokwane - Polokwane Game Reserve

It was time to leave Kruger NP, unfortunately. But first a quick round on the S59. Apart from two African Hawk-Eagles and a male and female Double-banded Sandgrouse not many birds of note. A strange sighting was the Little Stint foraging the tarmac road, probably due to the rains of last night.

Leaving Kruger was difficult for us, we would have loved more time in the park. But there was still a full day to go before we had to catch the airplane back home. We decided to give two areas a try for some dry thorn scrub birds: Polokwane Game Reserve [183] in Polokwane (Pietersburg) and the road to Zaagkuildrift [168], a lead we got from birders at Pafuri. Around noon we arrived in Polokwana where we found a motel to spend the night. The afternoon was spent in Polokwane Game Reserve east of Polokwane. This was an afternoon well spent, both for a good set of birds and an overwhelming variety of mammals.

The first specialties to be seen were White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Marico Flycatcher and two of the most charming species of this habitat: Crimson-breasted Shrike and Violet-eared Waxbill. The area was full of cuckoos including Klaas’s Cuckoo, Dideric Cuckoo and Black Cuckoo. Kalahari Scrub-Robin and Scaly-feathered Finch were common. There’s another target lark to be seen: Short-clawed Lark but I couldn’t locate it. Instead both Sabota Lark and Rufous-naped Lark did show up. Later on a feeding flock held Ashy Tit, Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler, Black-throated Canary, Black-eared Waxbill and Yellow-bellied Eremomela.

But not only the birds were impressive, we also found many mammals including White Rhino (common), Giraffe, Eland, Red Hartebeast and Tsessebe, Springbok, Steenbok, Sable Antelope and the most charming: Gemsbok, found while following a pair of Secretarybirds. We ended the day with a male Northern Black Korhaan flying into the area where we were watching the Secretarybirds and Gemsbokken.

8-11

Polokwane – Zaagkuildrift - Johannesburg

From Polokwane the area called Zaagkuildrift  [168] is about 1,5 hour drive towards Gauteng. We arrived early enough to witness several Northern Black Korhaans displaying. The first part of the road through the grasslands were full of birds including Yellow Bishop, White-winged Widowbird and Desert Cisticola but most of the remaining thorny scrub specialties didn’t show up. A pond held a Squacco Heron and Wattled Starlings were abundant along the whole stretch of road. Due to recent rains the road was in poor conditions and occasionally scary to drive. We drove all the way to Kgomo-Kgomo but the only birds of note in the seasonal flood plains were Ruff and Blue-cheeked Bee-eater. Despite the fact that the remaining targets didn’t show up this was a good last excursion with about 100 species of birds seen in just about 4 hours. Around noon we left the area and headed to the airport. Underway we found some filling station employees willing to clean the car that got very dirty on the Zaagkuildrift road.

Up